Fresh Rolls (front) and Chicken Pad Thai   Co-owner Derek Lertseriqul serves a Thai iced tea   Seafood Pad Puk

The opening of Thai Emerald in Huntersville five months ago is a sign that the cuisine known for its freshness, well-balanced flavors, affordability – and spiciness tailored to individual tastes – continues to have a considerable following.

Co-owners Pichai Kiatthanapaiboon and Derek Lertserikuo, whose family has a long restaurant history, knew each other through the tight-knit Thai community and decided to open a restaurant together. Setting up shop on the western end of the new Northcross Center on Sam Furr Road, the two selected Huntersville over a Charlotte location because the Queen City has more than its fair share of Thai places.

“Thai food is more flavorful that Chinese or Japanese food,” says Lertserikuo, who is also the manager. “It’s a cross between Indian and other Asian styles of cooking.”

At Thai Emerald, several selections on the menu are denoted with a pepper indicating a higher level of spiciness, but Lertserikuo says all food comes out on the low end of the heat scale, and everything is easily adaptable for those who want to up the ante. In the kitchen, his father, Silapachai Lertserikuo, and aunt, Supanee Baker, are careful to give each customer exactly the level of spice requested.

“We will remake the order if it is too spicy,” Lertserikuo says. “There’s no sense having someone eat something they can’t handle.”

On a recent date night early in the week, my husband and I found the casual neighborhood spot filled mostly with couples enjoying an affordable dinner. In an atmosphere that is casual, booths frame the perimeter of the beige tiled room, and tables are gathered in the center. White linens cover tables decorated with a vase filled with a faux orchid. Overhead, track and recessed lighting and a few pendant lights over booths provide a soothing glow. Asian artwork on pale green walls and a wall-mounted flat-screen television complete the look.

We started off with Spring Rolls ($4.50). The rolls we ordered were filled with chicken, glass noodles and vegetables tightly wrapped and lightly fried. Served with a pleasant sweet and spicy sauce, the rolls were just enough to whet our appetite.

Classic Satay ($5.95) is another good way to start the meal. Strips of marinated chicken or beef are threaded onto skewers and grilled with coconut cream. Dip the bites in a peanut sauce or cucumber chili sauce.

Mee Krob ($5.95), available in two styles, is another favorite. The Thai lettuce wraps bring together crispy rice noodles topped with chicken, tofu and shrimp mixed with a sweet and sour sauce, or noodles with sautéed shrimp, chicken and water chestnuts, served with lettuce leaves that you spoon the filling into.

We enjoyed our spring rolls with glasses of Thai Iced Tea ($2.25), in which a glass is filled three-fourths with Thai iced tea and topped with creamer. The restaurant also serves beer and wine, and Lertserikuo recommends a glass of sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio.

“White wines cut through the taste (of the food), so each bite will be fresh,” he says.

It would have been so easy to order Pad Thai, that famous rice noodle dish for which all Thai restaurants seem to be judged, but we set off on a different course. I selected Pad Kee Mao with chicken ($10.95). The plentiful serving of stir-fried noodles with chicken, bamboo shoots, onions, mushrooms, cabbage, carrots, bell peppers and fragrant basil leaves were lightly coated in a sauce the menu said was spicy but actually turned out to be very mild.

My husband opted for Ped Gra Pow ($16.95). A duck entrée in which the tender dark meat is flash-fried for an outer crispiness, it featured onions, mushrooms, bell peppers, carrots and basil leaves in a slightly sweet and hot sauce. It was served with a bowl of steamed, fragrant jasmine rice.

“We generally ask people if there’s anything in particular they want in the way of meat, then go to curries, noodles or rice,” Lertserikuo says.

The curry menu offers five selections with a choice of protein. From sweeter red curry to spicy green curry, the stew-like entrees have a creamy taste courtesy of coconut milk, and include all varieties of vegetables.

“All of our curries are pretty spicy,” he says.

Four of the eight seafood entrees feature fried or steamed whole red snapper prepared. Pla Chuchee (market price), the most popular, is prepared with a sauteed red curry paste in coconut cream with lime leaves, basil, corn, mushrooms and carrots.

Also on the menu are stir-fried dishes, with sauces including peanut, oyster and sweet and sour, combined with a variety of vegetables and selection of meat. By far, Pad Gra Pow ($10.95-$12.95) is the preferred dish, Lertserikuo says. Most people include chicken into the combination of fresh basil leaves stir-fried with mushrooms, bell peppers, onion, carrots and baby corn.

For a lighter meal with Thai flavors, choose from a variety of salads featuring beef, pork, chicken and seafood with traditional vegetables and seasonings.

“Beef Salad ($10.95) is definitely the best in my opinion,” he says of the hearty salad with grilled sliced sirloin, cucumbers, red onions, chili and tomatoes. “It’s spicy and sour with lemon and lime juices and Thai dried chili pepper powder for a dressing.”

With the timing of our visit during mango season, we couldn’t resist the seasonal dessert offering of Sticky Rice with Mango ($4.25). It was a refreshing treat of sticky rice drizzled with coconut sauce topped with chunks of tropical mango. If mangos aren’t in season, the Sticky Rice with Egg Custard ($4.25) is sure to please.

Our meal for two, including tax but not tip, was $45.36.

Thai Emerald

• Address: 10110 Northcross Center Court, Suite 170, Huntersville
• Contact: (704) 896-7484
• Hours: Noon-9:30 p.m. Sunday; 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday; noon-10:30 p.m. Saturday
• Prices: Appetizer $3.95-$6.50; salads $5.95-$10.95; soups $4.50-$12.95; entrees $10.75-$16.95; desserts $2.50-$4.25.
• Seating: 76
• Special notes: For parties of six or more, reservations are recommended.